Keep the Black Sea Blue (and other Tales from Turkey)


This past week I was part of a bipartisan legislative group that visited the nation of Turkey through a trip sponsored by the American Turkish Friendship Association, which is based in Fairfax CIty.

Also attending were Harvey Morgan (R-Middlesex), Jim Scott (D-Merrifield) and Betsy Carr (D-Richmond).  An earlier group of legislators took a similar trip in May.  We paid for our own plane tickets to Istanbul.  The rest of the trip, including accommodations for one week was paid for by ATFA.

It was a working vacation.  Our group met with several government representatives, including MP's representing the Turkish ruling party in Ankara and the mayors of localities around Istanbul.  We also visited with prominent Turkish journalists, an international trade association, a political think-tank and several business leaders seeking contacts in the U.S. 

Turkey is a nation of 70 million people.  It has the 16th largest economy in the world and is a pro-American gateway to Arab nations, many of which have strained relations with the U.S.  The purpose of our journey was to promote Virginia (and the U.S.) as a trading partner and maintain the friendly relations which have existed since WWII. 

My favorite encounter was our debate before a crowded hall of college students in Ankara.  Like many students in the MIddle East, they expressed skepticism of the role of the U.S. in promoting democracy.  We stood up for our country and its long alliance with Turkey through NATO.  It was good to have an actual American in the room to defend the U.S.  While we did not agree on every point, I think we impressed the students with our willingness to hang in there and answer questions.

The meetings, greetings and gift exchanges were only part of the story.  Otherwise, here are some of my impressions from the whirlwind journey:

1.  Istanbul (nee Byzantium, Constantinople) is a visually stunning City and the former capital of three major world empires (Rome, Byzantine and Ottoman).  Its architecture monuments like the Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace are some of the most famous in the world.  The Bospurus straits split the City (and Europe from Asia) and the views are unparalleled.

2.  The Grand Bazaar in Istanbul is some of the most exciting shopping in the world.  You can spend all day there with less than sixty bucks and never see the same shop twice.  Nothing like seeing Western tourists in khaki shorts and Saudi women in all-black burqas standing in line together to buy gifts.

3.  The land of Anatolia (eastern Turkey) is the cradle of the Christian faith with cities like Ephesus, Antioch and Sardis as well as the modern-day Izmir, which was Smyrna.  The cave paintings in Cappadocia (the Biblical Galatia) are astonishing.  They literaly tell the story of the Christian faith at its formation.

4.  The Turkish people are friendly and many speak English.  Despite recent tensions, we had very few negative comments and several families generously hosted us for dinner, which featured lamb kebabs and fresh fruit.  It is also a democratic country, unlike most its neighbors.

5.  The coastal waters are clear and warm.  I went swimming in the Aegean Sea near Ephesus and the Black Sea, north of Istanbul.  After the latter, we visited with the Mayor of the seaside city where we spent the day.  He was running for re-election so I gave him his re-election slogan:   "Keep the Black Sea Blue."   Not sure how that will translate.

6.  The interior of Turkey is dry and mountainous.  Reminds me of Utah or Nevada.   It has been criss-crossed by conquerors dating back to the Hittites, so much so that there are warrens of cliff dwellings and caves to hide from invaders. 

7.  The nation of Turkey is legally secular but the large majority appear to be practicing Muslims.  You have no doubt you're in the Islamic World, especially when the muezzin calls the faithful to prayer at 5 a.m.  By contrast, there a few actual churches or synagogues left despite the long history of intermingled faith. 

In my career, I've been invited on several international trips.  This was the first I ever accepted and I'm glad I did.  Returning to Virginia, I realize how fragile our position in the MIddle East and how critical our relations with allies like Turkey.  Again, I cannot overemphasize the unfailing generosity and friendliness of our Turkish hosts.  There is a strong bond there. 

Thank you to the American Turkish Friendship Association and our great guide Mahmud for making it possible. 

Tessukur lar Turkiye.  Chok guzel!   (Thank you Turkey.  Great job!)
















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